Paris in September

Travel

Sep 22

Paris is beautiful in September. The leaves have just started to change and there is a definite chill in the air. There are fewer visitors during this time than compared to in the summer months, which makes exploring a little bit easier. We arrived bright and early on a Thursday morning from the train and hit the ground running.

Our stay at Hotel Panache was lovely - slightly more quaint than expected but perfect for its purpose during our stay. In the evenings after days of exploring we'd open the windows to the terrace and relax with a bottle of rosé.

Exploring Paris is best done by location. Pick an arrondissement and dedicate a good portion of the day there. We started in the center of Paris and sort of worked our way outwards.

2nd/3rd arrondissement + le marais

Breizh Café is a super (and fancy) fun galette / crepe place. We went there for a later dinner on our first night. They serve alcoholic cider that they recommend you have with everything. All of their crepes are made with buckwheat flower which makes them slightly heartier than your average. I loved Cafe Kitsune - its right in the Palais Royal and is the perfect little grab and go place for a yummy latte or tea. The spice red tea is delicious and tastes like Christmastime. Musee Picasso is one of my favorites - simply because its classic minimalist interior is stunning and a really cool juxtaposition within context of looking at Picasso. Afterwards, there is a ton to do in that area - eating, shopping, wandering. The Beef Club (is exactly what it sounds like) is fancy night out - afterwards go downstairs to their secret bar and have on of their special cocktails. If you like smoothies, acai bowls and anything California-like healthy - check out Sloe. Pizzeria Populare is so so so good. But its tres populare - so don't be afraid of the giant line outside, they don't take reservations and it moves pretty fast. Once you're inside, you're seated at big long communal tables, so you'll be comfy cozy with your neighbor. Do a little research before you go and check out the menu. Unfortunately my lack of French led me in the direction of accidentally ordering two cheese dishes as starters - but hey, its cheese.

montemartre

Buvette is probably one of the best meals I've ever had. Really simple ingredients (think fresh bread and local produce) and a cozy friendly atmosphere. Go and order the Croque Monsieur. Its literally just bread thats been grilled with cheese and butter and ham (and probably other things too but I blacked out half way through because I felt like I was eating a slice of heaven). Walking around Montemartre is a bit like stepping into a medieval city built on a hillside. Each street wraps into another and creates a really cool area for getting lost in and around the beautiful houses. The Sacre Coeur is a Catholic church that sits at the top of Montemartre and looks over the entire city. Its a fun trip to make, however is slightly overwhelming in its popularity - be prepared to go from a remote and peaceful stroll to being bombarded by the tourist masses. Marcel is a great place to grab a bite in this area. Tucked away on a more private side of Montemarte, its full of local Parisians on their lunch hour.

7th arrondissement + saint germain

There were three main things I had in mind for this area. The Eiffel Tower, Musee d'Orsay, and Le Bon Marche. Musee Rodin is also a must-do. You don't necessarily need to be a sculpture or Rodin lover, just go and meander through the gardens. You can buy a combined ticket to Musee d'Orsay and Musee Rodin for a reduced rate. The Saint Germain is a beautiful area full of cafés and apartments to drool over. We walked along the Seine all the way to the Musee d'Orsay and then a little further to the Eiffel Tower. Café de Flore is a popular spot, but its sort of a tourist trap with very expensive (yet fabulous) people watching. If you're lucky, sit outside. Right around the corner is a traditional French restaurant called Le Relais de l'entrecote that apparently serves some of the best steak and frits that aren't on the menu, you just ask for them and they ask you how you like it cooked. Make a reservation by calling ahead - the line out the door begins right when they open so best to secure a spot. The Eiffel tower is kind of a no brainer - we popped into a shop just outside the park and bought a bottle of wine to enjoy in the grass closer to the tower. The grassy areas on either side of the tower are tiny bit less crowded than the others.

1st arrondissement

Berthillon is right on ile saint louis and has amazing ice cream. Try something a little different like the rose raspberry - although you really can't go wrong with their chocolate or vanilla either. Its a nice walk to go and grab an ice cream and meander along the edge of the ile saint louis, then go sit down near the water in the canal - its so relaxing to be in the heart of a bustling city and yet be so calm by the water. If you feel a little touristy - pop across the river to the left bank and check out the Shakespeare and Co bookshop - its worth walking up to the top floor, sometimes theres a piano player there in the tiny back poetry rooms.

other left bank areas + random things

This american breakfast place is hilarious. If you feel homesick, or simply just need a good old fashioned american breakfast to soak up all the bordeaux you had the night before, give it a try. When I studied in Paris we frequented this place on weekends - the pancakes are so good, be sure to get them. The Jardin des Plantes and le Jardin du Luxembourg are both beautiful places to picnic and relax. I enjoyed walking through the Jardin du Luxembourg and then stopping in a café across the street for lunch, there are a ton of places along Boulevard Saint-Michel. Chez Bartolo is a great Italian place - Sofia Coppola is a frequenter there.

If you're ever at a loss for food choices - or just simply feel like the last thing you'd like to do is dine in another restaurant - take the evening "off" and go grab a baguette from any boulangerie and some fresh fruits and veggies from a local market. Its the easiest quick fix and is way better than anything you'd expect. Wine is also a fantastic price at any local monoprix - go buy your ingredients and have a picnic by the Seine. Paris has a way about it that makes even just biting into a fresh baguette with butter feel decadent.

Paris has some of the most fantastic pharmacies as well. I've gone and stocked up on pure-ingredient based products that are not available in the US.

A few thoughts on the Metro. I prefer walking and uber over taking the Paris Metro. The system is confusing and the experience, although extremely fast, is a bit of a rough one. If you're staying in Paris for an extended time, do try and get to know the system. However if you're just on holiday, I'd recommend to just not. Try walking everywhere - its such a better way to see the city.

Paris is a bit of a paradox - you can feel incredibly luxurious one moment, and a bit like you're trekking through a medieval parade of tourists, grumpy waiters, and moments of pure confusion the next. However I think that may be what makes it such a handsome and alluring city. Try to go to Paris with a rough plan, but know that the best experiences are often when you wander though neighborhoods and pop into a random café for a taste of something a little unknown.

Chez Bartolo | Allard | Bar du Marché | La Duree |